A Battle with Sickness on the Peaks of the Balkans Trail
Nobody sets out on a trail expecting to fall sick. The last thing any hiker wants—especially far from the comforts of home—is to be hit by waves of nausea and sudden, uncontrollable diarrhoea. Yet, sometimes, no matter how careful you are, it happens. And when it does, the physical challenge of hiking takes a backseat to sheer survival.
An Adventure in the Balkans
In 2023, I embarked on a journey through the Balkans, drawn by the allure of the Peaks of the Balkans trail. This relatively new long-distance route weaves through Montenegro, Albania, and Kosovo—regions that were once off-limits to much of the Western world and, in more recent history, scarred by war.
I was excited to walk through landscapes rich in history and culture, meet local people proud of their homelands, and experience the warmth of their hospitality. And I did. Everywhere I went, I encountered friendly locals eager to share their traditions, their stories, and their love for the mountains.
But I had also heard the warnings—rumours of sickness spreading along the trail. Determined to avoid it, I took every precaution. I carried five liters of water into a particularly suspect valley, camped away from others, and used copious amounts of hand sanitizer as a protective barrier. I was convinced I had done everything right.
A False Sense of Security
Crossing into Kosovo from Albania, I felt confident and healthy. My precautions had paid off—or so I thought. That evening, I decided to stay at a mountain refuge, indulging in Kosovan hospitality. The meal was pleasant, aside from an unexpected geopolitical debate with a German woman who insisted that Putin had the right to take Ukraine. A Dutch hiker and I politely disagreed, though I conceded that many in the West don’t fully understand Russian history.
I went to bed feeling strong and ready for the next day. I had planned to take a less-traveled section of the trail, one that many hikers skipped in favor of an easier route back into Montenegro. But I was eager to see more of Kosovo’s mountains and welcomed the solitude.
Then, in the dead of night, it struck.
A Night of Hell
A sharp stomach ache yanked me from sleep, intensifying by the second. Then, a full-body sweat drenched me. I barely made it to the toilet before I started vomiting violently. And then came the diarrhoea—the most foul-smelling, gut-wrenching liquid I had ever expelled.
Over and over, I purged. Vomiting. Shitting. Vomiting again. By dawn, I was completely drained.
Survival Mode
I’m stubborn by nature, but even I knew that continuing the hike in this condition was out of the question. I needed to regroup and recover. My original plan had been to hike to another spot that day, but instead, I arranged for a lift to get me there faster. Upon arrival, I realized that camping opportunities were limited.
Despite my weakened state, I made the tough decision to push forward on foot—a grueling three-mile trek with an 800-meter climb to a fresh spring where I could set up camp.
Every step was painful. Every breath felt heavy. But I kept going. Five agonizing hours later, I collapsed by the spring, exhausted beyond belief. After an hour of sleep on the cold ground, I finally mustered the strength to pitch my tent, crawled inside, and slept for 12 straight hours.
Back on My Feet
By morning, I felt slightly better. I forced down bread and jam, then pressed on, eventually crossing back into Montenegro. The worst was over. I would finish the trail. I would get myself home.
Lessons Learned
So why share this story? Because no matter how prepared you think you are, sickness can strike anyone. If you’re heading into the wilderness, be ready:
Carry salt tablets to help replenish lost electrolytes.
Pack medicine to stop severe diarrhoea if necessary.
Don’t assume you’re immune—even with precautions, illness can still find you.
This was the most debilitating experience I’ve ever faced on a trail, but I learned a lot about myself in those desperate hours.
Never give in. Adapt. Keep moving forward.