I get asked a lot about where to train in Tokyo. Having lived in Japan for a number of years and visited it every year for a very long time, I know Tokyo better than I know London.
If you have never been before, it's difficult to describe just how big it is. You can be surrounded by the tallest skyscrapers you've ever seen, jump on the subway and ride a full 20 minutes and emerge still surrounded by huge skyscrapers. It is massive, but, once you get the hang of the subway system, very easy to get around. And these days with Google maps you can get your hand held right to the location.
Not like the old days - I remember navigating to the old Paraestra Tokyo headquarters (Yuki Nakai's home gym, which is a bit out of the way) with scribbled notes in my hand like turn left out of the station, walk past the vegetable market, down the third alley on the left, get to the cross roads with the beauty salon, etc. Those were the days! Down in the claustrophobic basement, the walls covered with mould, no changing room, and the hardest people in Tokyo doing open mat every lunchtime. Good times.
Now you can navigate from your hotel to the dojo door and know how busy each subway car is in advance and which way to turn when you step off the train. Too easy.
Over the years my go-to spots have changed but these would be my recommendations.
By the way, I go on foot and by train EVERYWHERE in Tokyo, and I recommend it. I would not bother with taxis. Walk the streets and take in the sights, there is something amazing around every corner.
JIUJITSU
https://maps.app.goo.gl/tf9XTfn4xZUSLFai9
Masakazu Imanari opened his own gym not so long ago. It is clean, of a good size for a gym in Tokyo (most are very small), and has male and female changing rooms and showers. Plus, it has an Imanari. Imanari is one of my favourite people in all of combat sports. Quiet, unassuming, friendly, and very very good at jiujitsu. Did you know he even teaches, trains and rolls in the gi? Every single day. The gym is very welcoming, lots of foreigners train there, and - for now at least - Imanari will roll with everyone. There is always a queue of random foreigners looking to see what it's like to roll with him, and from what I have seen the result is always the same - lots of heel hooks and laughing.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/E3t6thQo71wsRGMQ6
The headquarters of the Paraestra network of gyms, run by the legendary Yuki Nakai. It functions like any normal gym with plenty of classes and instructors. For me it was always a pilgramage because it is the organisation I am affiliated to, and also, because of the famous Hiru Jiujitsu (lunchtime rolling) which used to be an amazing open mat in the middle of the day. I believe that this open session is no longer running however they always seem keen to receive visitors. The gym is in a basement, very small, with no changing rooms (only a toilet) so be aware of that. It's also a little out of the way and not on the main JR lines, but not too difficult to get to.
3) Igloo
https://maps.app.goo.gl/XmE7sHRXnhjcCMZ47
Igloo is a relatively new gym but home to some of the best jiujitsu practitioners in Japan. 'Fat Ninja' Igor Tanabe, Kenta Iwamoto when he isn't at B-Team, Kanae Yamada, and loads of other people that until recently I had not heard of but fucking kicked my ass when I visited. The gym itself is extremely cool - split level with a hangout space upstairs, male and female showers, and a Brazilian / Japanese vibe. It's quite far from the station so either get a bus (really simple) or walk.
4) Patos
https://maps.app.goo.gl/awrdKoPoPL9ny91G6
(One other location available)
Nakamura Daisuke is an OG of the Japanese BJJ scene, multiple time all-Japan champion and one of the most phenomenally talented guys I have ever rolled with. His gym is clean and welcoming. He doesn not speak much English but is one of the friendliest guys in the scene. Definitely worth a visit if you can make it down. If I recall, the gym has male and female showers.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/cMnE9sYDtiqApMtg6
The headquarters of Tri Force, one of the biggest jiujitsu organisations in Japan. Run by Mitsuyoshi Hayakawa, another of the OGs of the Japanese scene. Tri Force really showed me what a high end gym could be like. My first time visiting was quite the eye opener. Incense burning, extremely clean, beautifully laid out and very modern. Plus, the standard of jiujitsu is very high, with Nobuhiro Sawada being one of the stand out instructors. The city of Ikebukuro itself is a great place to hang out after training with loads of bars and restaurants around. Shower and male / female changing rooms are nice and clean.
6) AACC
https://maps.app.goo.gl/NJqdTHzinccXNBG27 (enter via Gold's Gym)
The Abe Ani Combat Club is a huge training facility (probably one of the biggest I have seen in Tokyo) located inside and above a Gold's Gym, run by Hiroyuki Abe, long time veteran of the Japanese MMA scene. This gym has produced some incredible fighters, particularly women - notably Megumi Fujii and Rizin champ Ayaka Hamasaki, as well as kickboxing legend Rena who trained MMA there. They have jiujitsu, grappling and MMA classes and their kids wrestling program is incredible. Be warned, as it is located in Gold's Gym, entrance can be a bit weird and make you feel very foreign - although Abe-san is super nice and friendly, you will have to sign in at the gym and if you have tattoos be prepared to explain yourself to the reception staff. Omori is a nice area with good restaurants to eat at after training. The gym has excellent shower and changing facilities.
7) Carpe Diem
https://maps.app.goo.gl/sRz5hTvPhRKyK2bY6
Carpe Diem is one of the coolest gyms in Japan. Originally it was part of Tri Force, and I used to visit the locations that have now changed into Carpe Diem. The rebranding was very strong, and the gym now has its own identity, awesome instructors and very high level jiujitsu, often winning the team trophy in Japanese competitions. I mostly visited the gym located in Aoyama, which is now Carpe Diem Aoyama, although I haven't visited any Carpe Diem gym since the rebrand, they all have excellent reputations. Often the instructor will teach in English as well as Japanese. I am sure they have male and female changing rooms, and Aoyama is beautiful, high end area of Tokyo with boutique shops and restaurants and pleasant, sun-dappled leafy streets.
There are LOADS of other gyms to visit. Honestly I never have a bad time training in Japan. People are usually incredibly friendly and welcoming. Just search around and send a DM or email first. My advice on etiquette when visiting a dojo in Japan would be pretty much the same as most countries.
Check ahead of time - schedule, costs, etc.
Don't expect anyone to speak English - they may, but that's a bonus
Offer to pay a drop in fee
Shoes almost always go off outside the door (pay attention to where other people's shoes are)
Be super clean with clean training gear. They are usually sticklers for this, more so than in other countries
Don't walk around shirtless before / after, especially if you have tattoos. Japan is more tolerant than it was but still, some places may not appreciate it.
Simply, read the room and imitate other's behaviour
Plan your journey home if training late at night - Tokyo is a 24 hour city but the public transport sucks past midnight
ACCOMMODATION
Tokyo has accommodation to suit literally any budget, and I have never had a bad hotel. The Japanese attitude in general to delivering a good service / product means that even budget locations are usually very well presented and clean. I have stayed in luxury hotels, regular "business hotels", and cheap hostels with shared shower facilities, all of them have been awesome.
Hostels and guest houses are very cost-effective. You'll probably be surrounded by other foreigners, which, to be honest, I always try to avoid, but there is nothing wrong with them on a budget. I stayed in a tiny square room with tatami mats, no windows, no TV, and a shared shower, but it did the job and I could spend the money I saved on more important things, like beef and beer.
A traditional Japanese inn is called a "ryokan" and you may find a few here and there. Ryokan will have a more traditional feel, with tatami rooms (these can be an acquired taste, the tatami can have a smell that takes some getting used to, and you will sleep on a thin mattress on the floor) as well as onsen (public baths) and traditional food. They range from cheap and cheerful to luxurious and expensive.
A good mid-range hotel I recommend is "APA HOTEL", which has hundreds of locations around Tokyo. Rooms are small, like all Tokyo hotel rooms, but clean and convenient. The place usually has a coin laundry, essential if you are training jiujitsu daily.
You can crank up the budget and not be disappointed anywhere you go - Tokyo, on the most part, almost always delivers and the more you pay, the nicer the digs. Bigger rooms, more luxurious buildings, better on-site facilities, etc. Tokyo is a place where, if you have money, you can have a very good time.
EAT & DRINK
In my opinion there is no better place in the world for food and drink than Tokyo (except maybe my wife's home town of Fukuoka.) You will find the BEST restaurants in the world here, and some of the most fun night life you have ever experienced.
General advice:
My favourite food in the world is yakiniku, which means grilled meat. It's the restaurants where you have a small grill on your table and you are served raw meat to grill yourself. Japanese beef is the best beef in the world, and it is not even close. If you have never tried the top grade wagyu (Japanese beef), you simply have no idea what it tastes like, and once you do, meat will be spoiled for you forever.
You can walk into any nice looking place and usually not be disappointed. Now let's be clear - you're going to a yakiniku restaurant to eat meat, and lots of it. Don't make a rookie error and order rice or noodles or any of that crap. Meat, meat, extra meat, and beer. Maybe some lettuce to get some green stuff in your guts (I guess).
Places I can Recommend:
Yakiniku Mafia - Kind of a weird, high end, modern dining experience with really friendly and fun staff. Pricey.
Ebisutei - Found this place by accident thinking it would be no good. Was absolutely fantastic - not too expensive, friendly staff, cold beer and good beef.
Hundreds more, just go out and find "yakiniku" restaurants.
Other random eating spots:
Tokyo Gyoza Akara Hanare - a delicious gyoza spot. Gyoza are Japanese dumplings (or their version of Chinese dumpings, probably.) This place offers loads of different types. Be warned - they don't seem to get many foreigners, and they seemed a bit panicked when I arrived with Gregor Gracie and Tarik Hopstock. We ordered about 20 gyoza each and they thought we had over ordered. We ate that easily and they were relieved, lol.
Rec Coffee Suidobashi - I assume this is part of a larger chain, but the coffee was really good. One thing Japan really can suck at is coffee. It is very hit or miss, but their attention to detail means that Starbucks is often a good bet (as there is little to no variability between the coffee served at each location, and it is all served to a "reasonable" standard). I always got good coffee here - good crema, microfoam, and a nice caffeine kick.
Tonkatsu Maisen Aoyama - not many visitors know about this place. One of the oldest and best tonkatsu (deep friend breaded pork) places in Tokyo, if I remember correctly. Absolutely delicious, bit of a queue to get in.
The Great Burger - my pick for best burger place in Tokyo. A sit down American diner style restaurant with seriously tasty food and very hip staff. There is usually a queue at lunchtime so go early. Once you finish there, head next door to:
Good Town Doughnuts - for some ridiculously good donuts.
If you are in that area, this Starbucks is on the top floor of a very cool building and offers really nice views, but can get busy and is full of baka gaijin like you.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
If you are on a jiujitsu pilgrimage to Tokyo, you cannot miss Reversal RVDDW Store. Located in a very upmarket shopping area, this is the place to go to find the coolest BJJ brand in Japan. Reversal is ultra high end, very expensive, very stylish training and streetwear. In fact you can make a day of this area.
Get the train to "Harajuku Station". You can explore the huge "Yoyogi Park" and "Meiji Jingu" Shrine just behind the station, then walk back through and down the famous Takeshita street, which is actually total crap and full of shit stores and touts, but still is super famous. Once you have got to the end and crossed the main road, keep going down the next street, and experience one of my fave places in Tokyo. It goes from a big city to a village feel with narrow, neat streets and dozens of boutique streetwear brand stores tucked away on every corner and across multiple floors. You can spend hours here walking from coffee shop to store. Once you have exhausted yourself there, it's a short walk south to Omotesando Hills and yet more upmarket stores and malls.
Tokyo is made up of loads of smaller cities like Shinjuku, Shibuya, Ikebukuro, etc. and most are serviced by a circular train called the Yamanote Line which goes around each station all day long. You can honestly just pick one and get off and start exploring. It is hard to go wrong, there is a staggering amount to see and do in Tokyo.
I like the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building in Shinjuku because it has a FREE observation deck on the billionth floor that offers incredible views over the city.
Ginza is another upmarket area of Tokyo filled with amazing eating and drinking spots.
I do not know if it is permanent, but this is one of the coolest things I have ever done - teamLab Borderless, which is a huge interactive art exhibit that is honestly pretty mind-blowing. It's in a cool area which I think still has a gigantic full sized Gundam Robot in it (just casual Japan things.)
Golden Gai is a cluster of famous backstreets near Shinjuku which dozens of bars nestled on top of each other. We had a great time there just opening doors and walking into tiny bars.
Be warned - there are touts everywhere, and you can safely ignore every single one of them. They are totally unnecessary. Just decide yourself which bar you want to go in, and go in.
There are plenty of after hours places in Tokyo too. Kabukicho can get a little rough as can Roppongi. Again, never follow a tout - Japan is a safe place but tales of foreigners (and locals) being brought to bars and either drugged and robbed, or extorted out of money, are commonplace.
Oh and since you probably want to know - girls bars are bars where you have drinks and all the staff are cute girls that will sit across from you and make small talk. It helps to either go with a Japanese person or be able to speak Japanese well. Hostess bars are similar to girls bars but usually more expensive and more upmarket, and the girls will sit with you rather than behind the bar, as they do in girls bars. That's a subject for a different day - the strange Japanese night culture and its relation to male / female relationships, but it is definitely a fun thing to do every now and then. The equivalent also exists for women to enjoy. Just be careful there is no fine print and you know exactly what you are getting into. Note that neither of these places offer anything more than drinks - you will get into serious trouble if you assume the girls are there for other reasons. And those places do exist, but I wouldn't know anything about them.
This is only the tiniest list covering a small part of what you can do in the world's biggest urban area. I have found so many cool places, fun things to do, places to eat and train simply by exploring using public transport and walking.
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