This simple recipe is unscented, and perfect for sensitive skin, It glides on the hair and skin with lace like fashion and is made with anionic (negatively charged), cationic (positively charged) and amphoteric (both positive or negatively charged depending on the ambient conditions) surfactants, cetyl alcohol to act as an emollient and thickener, and a preservative, since a shampoo bar comes into contact with water we need a broad spectrum preservative to protect it from mould, fungi, and other bad
bacteria.
The ingredients
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate or SCI is a anionic surfactant, commonly known as Babyfoam due to its gentle and mild nature. It is a sodium salt ester of coconut fatty acid and comes in either powder, chips or prills. It melts down nicely into a thick paste when mixed with a liquid surfactant, and adds a soft velvetly lather to our formulations. It has a PH of 4-6.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine or CAPB for short, is a liquid amphoteric surfactant, It is usually derived from Coconut Oil, and despite the name, contains no actual betaine. It is a medium strength foam booster, and helps to make the overall formula milder. It has a PH of 4.5-5.5
Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetyl Alcohol or BTMS 50 is a cationic surfactant, which offers a fine coating on the skin and hair and allows it to be conditioning. Behentrimonium methosulfate is derived from the oil that comes from the Rapeseed. It has a PH of 5-7.
Cetyl Alcohol Is a binding agent and fatty alcohol derived from plant oils, it is used to help thicken and harden the bar. It can also help with slip and skin feel.
Preservative - I personally use Geogard 221 (also known as Cosgard), but you can also use an alternative, like Geogard Ultra, or Preservative Eco. We use a broad spectrum preservative because our bar comes into contact with water.
PhaseTrade NameINCI Namew/w%FunctionASCISodium Cocoyl Isthionate55%
Primary Surfactant
ACAPBCocamidopropyl Betaine15%
Secondary Surfactant
BBTMS 50Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetyl Alcohol 24%
Conditioning
BCetyl AlcoholCetyl Alcohol 5%
Emollient, thickener
CGeogard 221Dehydroacetic Acid (and) Benzyl Alcohol1%
Preservative
We will make a 200g batch to start out with, which will make roughly two 100g bars
(since CAPB is only 30% active, then some of the water from the surfactant may evaporate in the process)
Ingredients:
Phase A
SCI 110g
CAPB 30g
Phase B
BTMS 50 48g
Cetyl Alcohol 10g
Phase C
Geogard 221 2g
Quick Notes:
- If you are planning to use Geogard Ultra as the preservative, as it is not heat sensitive you could add it to Phase A and by pass Phase C altogether.
Method
Weigh out your Phase A (SCI and CAPB) and Phase B (BTMS 50 and Cetyl Alcohol) ingredients into two separate beakers, then put them on the double boilers (you can even use a trivet or a jar lid in the bottom of a pot to act as a double boiler of sorts), and allow the ingredients to melt down.
The Phase A ingredients will melt down into a paste, and the Phase B ingredients will be completely liquid.
While these are melting, get a small beaker and add your Phase C ingredient (preservative) in this for later.
Once the Phase A and Phase B ingredients are melted down, then turn off the heat, and pour your Phase B ingredients into you Phase A beaker.
Stir well so they become a homogenised state, then add in you phase C ingredient (preservative) and mix well.
As your ingredients cool, they will become a playdough like consistency. Scoop your ingredients into your moulds and put in the freezer for a few hours to harden.
Once out of the freezer let them sit for 24-48 hours, then they're ready to use.
Make sure you don't leave the bar in a puddle of water, otherwise they will break down very quickly, let them dry inbetween uses.
If you enjoyed this and want to make more, check out our ebook on Syndet bars for beginners
Let me know how you get on! And feel free to send us photos of your bars for us to feature on our instagram page to [email protected] or tag us on instagram @laecovita
© Created by Anna Castellani 2021, All Rights reserved. For personal use only, if you would like to use it for commercial use, please contact us at [email protected]