Pilgrims Way Progress

Pilgrims Way Progress

Sep 14, 2025
279

Churches along Chaucer's Pilgrims Way, an old pedestrian route (actually dating from pre Roman iron age times 🛖) along the north downs in Kent from Rochester to Canterbury, two Roman towns which later became cathedral cities, have a particular significance with the huge nave of Charing dominating over its adjacent Archbishop's Palace, once favourite of St Dunstan, a Canterbury archbishop and the infamous Thomas á Beckett, now sadly neglected but still with fine kitchen gardens and paddocks in the very centre of the ancient village of Charing, west of Ashford on a line of springs where a roman villa has been discovered but even before that was an iron age settlement, indeed today many of the houses, unusually for Kent, are covered in flints, as is the palace

Charing was gifted to Canterbury by King Egbert 2 (recalled in a Faversham streetname) of Kent 765-780 

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Later Henry 8 took it from Cranmer in 1545 and Charing developed into an important stage with 2 turnpikes sharing the high street which enjoyed some notable violence, old alehouses becoming large coach taverns until the railway arrived 1884 🚂🚃🚃 

Today Charing is a forgotten place between the Ashford and Canterbury roads, bypassed and languishing

👉🏼 tap lightly on pics to open full

Most surprising is the "Cathedral of the Pilgrims Way" at Westwell, a tiny remote village almost no one knows of, even in nearby Ashford, boasting a green and a very tine dining pub, The Wheel, full of interesting locals and gigantic welcoming sofas, one of my best venues! I explored the incredible interior and highly recommend you do too, a fine break is to explore the old pilgrim villages here, lots of surprises 🌾 

The stone work is fine, magnificent and unique in Britain, the dowdy exterior holds its secret well! Seats 250 but once held twice as many, apparently the resting place of 300 Kentish farmers! Would be awe inspiring for string 🎻 quartets and cantatas sung 😲🎶🎶

Hothfield church is considered huge altho again small from exterior and so hidden away I have never seen it before, sadly shut

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I started out on the downs below Sittingbourne at Bredegar & Wormshill steam railway with builders cawfee and toffee tremor cake, see a fine old Shepherd Neame brewery "dray" Britain's oldest brewer 1698 Faversham, I meandered up laynes past millstreams and oast houses to the ancient PepperBox inn, well worth a visit, of remote Fairbourne Heath - a PepperBox is an old pistol - where I splayed over a large fireside sofa with a pint of above's Whitstable Pale ale 4% a blend of cereal and oystershells 🍺🦪

Then I discovered a quaint gothic church in nearby Charing Heath, built as infant school 1861 but extended and consecrated 1874 and the village pub 1709 Red Lion where I tried triple hopped Bear Island, same brewer

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On into the village of Charing with its winding historical high street and lots to discover including a Victoria cross! Origin of the Dering family who gave their name to nearby Pluckley Dering Arms and the windows peculiar to a tiny area of mid Kent as seen at the Swan of Little Chart 🦢🍻

I saw a remarkable lodge gate and hidden in a wood yonder an old wartime pillbox! Surprise!

A gentleman I'd met in Westwell church bought me a pint 🍺 of Hobgoblin ale 3.4% in the Wheel so I left in darkness and drove down to Dungeness to enjoy the cantaloupe half moon uniquely over Dover reflected across Romney Sands 

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As well as rabbit, fox 🦊 and badger, I surprised a fallow deer 🦌 in the woods outside Bethersden 

I end with my enterprise of September = I am picking grapes for the gruelling harvest at Gusbourne sparkling wine vineyards near Kenardington, Appledore in Kent 🍇✂️ 

😄 Hope you enjoy the tour! More Kentish discoveries soon! 🍺 cheers! From your on the spot beer & wine correspondent in Kent 🦪 

 https://buymeacoffee.com/ladyfeck/drink-your-soil-white-tuo

Oh 💀John the Baptist severed head, Basilica of San Silvestro Capite Rome 

Bcos it's good to get ahead ..

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