I had been reluctant to travel to Amsterdam for a long time. The images in my head I've always had of the Dutch capital were something sleazy, dirty, grimy and overtly commercial with nothing actually 'Dutch' about it. There has however always been several museums I had wanted to check out in the city, and with a trip to Germany planned following this, I thought I may as well stop by for a few days and get everything I want to see in the place out of the way, and then not really having the need to go back (like I have previously done with Paris and Oslo, which are both hell holes in my opinion).
After arriving in Amsterdam's Central Station at around 10:30am with no sleep whatsoever, I was straight away surprised with how nice the architecture in front of me was. Not only that, I was surprised with how it was no-where near as busy as I had expected, so with that, this lifted my mood and I wondered on to the first place I had on my list. My first impression of the city was like a less busier Copenhagen.
First up was Oude Kerk (Old Church), which is Amsterdam's oldest building dating back from 1213. It was really just what I needed as a first port of call. I was blown away by the interior, and more so, the beautiful vaulted ceiling. It is in fact the largest medieval wooden vault in Europe, which was a pleasant surprise. This along with how quiet it was inside provided me the sort of calmness I needed after being up all night travelling from Bristol Airport to here. The church had several other charms in it, like gravestones with memento moris engraved on them and carvings along the choir pew from the medieval period, charmingly showcasing the unique way of showing their sense of humour from that period.
This had certainly lifted my spirts, and thus I had a boost of motivation to visit a handful of other museums.
Next up was the Torture Museum, which luckily I had to myself. It was a lot smaller than I had expected, but I loved seeing what medieval torture instruments they had on display. This is a macabre interest of mine, and something I find very fascinating as it really reminds you how savage and barbaric our society was not all that long ago (in the grand scheme of things). The Flute of Shame was a particular favourite of mine, being a musician myself...
So, I visited another museum, got some food, then made my way to my hostel which was a few kilometres outside the city centre. I arrived at around 5pm, and there was no-one else in my dorm. I had really hoped this would mean that I would have it all to myself. I went to the bar downstairs, sunk a couple of beers, and after a few hours I went back up, and there was still no-one there!
I honestly thought at this point, it was all mine, but nope; a couple of hours later, the dorm filled up, but it wasn't all that bad as we got along, and they were respectful enough. I got my head down early, as I'd still hadn't slept, and got a decent nights sleep in.
So the next day was something I was really looking to, as I was to visit a museum which had been on my bucket list for a very long time. I would go as far to say this was my main incentive to visit Amsterdam.
As you all know, I have a big interest in death and the macabre in general; and what I was about to visit was a museum like no other I had visited before.
It is known as Museum Vrolik. It began as a private collection of the anatomists Gerald and Willem Vrolik and has expanded over time by other Dutch anatomists, and is now a museum within a hospital.
Yes, that's right. When I approached it, I had come across what was a hospital and also a university for medical students. I had to ask someone where the Vrolik Museum was, and was directed inside the building. It turns out that students use it for their studies, which I must say, is quite a privilege!
No photography was allowed inside (understandably), but I can assure you that the collection within will blow your mind. Tiny foetuses that are mere weeks old to foetuses at eight months, foetuses with one eye (cyclopia syndrome), foetuses with one mermaid like leg (sirenomelia), skulls that had been kicked by horses, arm bones that had been run over, bladder stones from centuries ago, a collection of skeletons with various discrepancies, and the list goes on! You can visit their website here for a taster of what to expect - https://www.museumvrolik.nl/en/
As I was about to leave, I purchased a couple of fridge magnets and got talking to the guy behind the counter, who was actually a really friendly person who took the time to talk about some of what was on display in more detail. This was quite humbling, as he really didn't need to do that but it just seems he saw my fascination with it all and wanted to add some input. Something we also talked about it that how important it is that there is no photography allowed in the museum; as if it was allowed, we all know how tourists would flood in. It's a quiet place, far from the centre with a very specific niche. You'll be reassured knowing that those who take the time to visit the museum are truly interested in the what it holds and are not just looking for other places to glamorise on their social media pages.
So fair to say my time at the Vrolik Museum went beyond my expectations. And also while there, I had another pleasant surprise...
While I was thinking about how I was going to spend my evening, I had a text off someone who I know via a private Telegram group saying that he lives near Amsterdam and could meet me later for a pint. Excellent! This really made my day, as it really makes for a greater experience having a local show you around. So we met up, got some delicious ribs, sunk a few beers and had some great discussions. It's one of those experiences that need it's own special word for, and we decided to use the word Hamingja.
In Norse mythology, Hamingja was a guardian spirit that decided the luck and happiness of a person. So with that luck, I feel it fits!
So anyway, it was getting late and after missing our first train, we said our goodbyes and went our separate ways. This was definitely the best day in Amsterdam for me, which still fills me with joy whenever I think about it.
So this brings me to my final day in Amsterdam. The day was predominantly spent visiting the extremely excessive Rijks Museum. It was a good three hours I had spent in that museum, which could of easily become more. It's one of those places with so much to look at, you find yourself not really looking at anything towards the end! Reminded me of my time at the Louvre Museum in Paris. But regardless, I enjoyed what they had on show, and it really expanded my knowledge on the history of Holland. Definitely something you should add to list when visiting Amsterdam, just be aware that this will take up most of your day!
So all in all, it was definitely worth the trip to the Dutch capital after so many reservations. I definitely can't see myself going back for a long trip ever again, but maybe just to stop by a for a day when travelling near by perhaps. Following this, I jumped on a train to central Germany where I spent an amazing four days, but that's another story.
Where will I go next? Ideas and plans are in the works. It'll be in Europe, but as always I'll make an effort to see what hidden gems lie within.
Thank you for reading!