A good work friend of my husband's recently asked me if I could make her an exfoliating body soap, so I thought I would share it with you all for this September's free formula! I have used Coconut flour as my exfoliant as that is what I had on hand, but depending on your desire of exfolation you can use something like pumice, salt (although beware salt will draw water as a humectant so just play around with small amounts if you want to make an exfoliating salt bar), coffee grounds, whichever you desire. 
The Ingredients
SCS is also known as Sodium Coco Sulfate, it is derived from a mix of fatty acids of all the coconut oils, which makes it a milder option than SLS which is the main surfactant in alot of cleansing products. It is derived completely from coconut oil.
Decyl Glucoside is a mild non aionic surfactant, its a very mild cleanser, but cleans and foams very well. Its derived from corn starch and the fatty alcohol decanol which is extracted from coconuts
Cetyl Alcohol - Is a binding agent derived from plant oils, it is used to help thicken and harden the bar as well as act as a conditioner.
Stearic Acid - Is a saturated fatty acid with an 18-carbon chain. It is used in this formula to stabilise and thicken our bar.
Hydrogenated Castor Oil - is a wax like hydrogenated derivative of Castor Oil, it helps to moisturise the skin.
Shea Butter - is a soft butter derived from the seed of the African Shea tree. It acts as an emollient and helps to soften the skin.
Coconut Flour (exfoliant) - Coconut Flour is a gentle exfoliant that lightly buffs the skin and absorbs excess oil.
Kaolin Clay - Kaolin Clay is a clay that has minerals, including Kaolinite, it has soothing and cleansing effects on the skin.
Mica - Micas are a group of minerals with outstanding physical characteristics, in skincare they are used due to their sheer, light reflecting and colour properties. It is sometimes refered to as "Nature's Glitter".
Essential Oils - I used a blend of Rosemary and Cedarwood in mine, but each one as their own benefits and fragrances, just choose one that suits your needs.
Vitamin E - It acts an an antioxidant, making sure the oils don't oxidise and helps to fight free radicals.
Preservative - I personally use Geogard 221 (also known as Cosgard), but you can also use an alternative, like Geogard Ultra, Optiphan or Preservative Eco. We use a broad spectrum preservative because our bar comes into contact with water.
Ingredient Alternatives
Shea Butter can be replaced with Mango Butter as a soft butter alternative, if you want you could use a harder barder like Kokum or Cocoa Butter also.
PhaseTrade NameINCI NameW/W%FunctionASCSSodium Coco Sulfate44%Primary SurfactantADecyl GlucosideDecyl Glucoside5%Secondary SurfactantBCetyl AlcoholCetyl Alcohol10%Emollient/HardenerBStearic AcidStearic Acid5%Emollient/HardenerBHydrogenated Castor OilHydrogenated Castor Oil5%Emollient/HardenerBShea ButterButyrospermum Parkii Seed Butter5%EmollientCExfoliantCocos Nucifera Fruit Powder20%ExfoliantCKaolinKaolin2%
Cleansing
CMicaMica (CI 77019)1%ColourCCitric AcidCitric Acid1%PH Adjuster CEssential OilsRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil and Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil1.5%FragranceCPreservativeDehydroacetic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol1%PreservativeCVitamin ETocopherol0.5%Antioxidant
We will make a 200g batch to start with, which can make two 100g bars, or four 50g bars
(The bars in the picture are actually around 65-80g each)
Method
Weigh out your Phase A (SCS and Decyl Glucoside) and Phase B ingredients into two separate beakers, then put them on the double boilers (you can even use a trivet or a jar lid in the bottom of a pot to act as a double boiler of sorts), and allow the ingredients to melt down.
The Phase A ingredients will melt down into a paste, and the Phase B ingredients will be completely liquid.
While these are melting, get two small beakers and add your Phase C ingredients into these, one with your Exfoliant, Clay, Mica and Citric Acid mixed together, and the other smaller beaker with your preservative, essential or fragrance oils and vitamin E.
Once the Phase A and Phase B ingredients are melted down, then turn off the heat, and pour your Phase B ingredients into you Phase A beaker.
Stir well so they become a homogenised state, then add in your beaker with the exfoliant dry mixture in it, stir well, until the colour if evenly dispersed within the mixture, once this as occurred, add in your essential/fragrance oil, preservative and Vitamin E and mix once again.
Once mixed well, pour your ingredients into silicone moulds and pop in the freezer for a few hours.
Once out of the freezer let them sit for 24-48 hours, then they're ready to use.
Make sure you don't leave the bar in a puddle of water, otherwise they will break down very quickly, let them dry inbetween uses.
If you enjoyed this, want to support what we are doing and love to make more solid skincare or haircare products, check out our eBooks Syndet Bars for Beginners (There is a good tip to toe body wash in here also). and Summer Essentials Skincare.
Let me know how you get on, And please send us photos of your bars for us to feature on our instagram page to [email protected] or tag us on instagram @laecovita.
