This formula is based loosely on our previous 3 in 1 solid bar, that previously used only 5 ingredients (it is a great beginner bar for those just starting out), but with a few more ingredients (some different to the previous one), and a holiday scent attached. I hope you enjoy! 
The ingredients
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate or SCI is a anionic surfactant, commonly known as Babyfoam due to its gentle and mild nature. It is a sodium salt ester of coconut fatty acid and comes in either powder, chips or prills. It melts down nicely into a thick paste when mixed with a liquid surfactant, and adds a soft velvetly lather to our formulations. It has a PH of 4-6.
Decyl Glucoside is a mild non aionic surfactant, its a very mild cleanser, but cleans and foams very well. Its derived from corn starch and the fatty alcohol decanol which is extracted from coconuts.It has a PH of 11.5-12.5, so we will be adding a PH adjuster in this formula.
Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetyl Alcohol or BTMS 50 is a cationic surfactant, which offers a fine coating on the skin and hair and allows it to be conditioning. Behentrimonium methosulfate is derived from the oil that comes from the Rapeseed. It has a PH of 5-7.
Hydrogenated Castor Oil - is a wax like hydrogenated derivative of Castor Oil, it helps to moisturise the skin.
Cetyl Alcohol Is a binding agent and fatty alcohol derived from plant oils, it is used to help thicken and harden the bar. It can also help with slip and skin feel.
Preservative - I personally use Geogard 221 (also known as Cosgard), but you can also use an alternative, like Geogard Ultra, Optiphan or Preservative Eco. We use a broad spectrum preservative because our bar comes into contact with water.
Essential or Fragrance Oils - In this particular bar I plan to use some fragrance oils that I have on hand, but you can do whichever you prefer. For this particular holiday edition, I am going to use a Orange and Cinnamon fragrance oil, but other holiday scents you could always try, are ginger, frankincense, vanilla, pine, the options are endless for those beautiful holiday scents that surround us during this period.
Kaolin Clay - Kaolin Clay is a clay that has minerals, including Kaolinite, it has soothing and cleansing effects on the skin. I like to add a small amount to mix with the Mica, which helps to anchor the colour, aswell as the fragrance.
Mica - Micas are a group of minerals with outstanding physical characteristics, in skincare they are used due to their sheer, light reflecting and colour properties. It is sometimes refered to as "Nature's Glitter". For this particular formula, since it is a holiday edition, I will be using Gold and Bronze Mica.
Ingredient Alternatives
If you don't have BTMS 50, you can always alternate with BTMS 25, BTMS 80 (also known as BTMS Plus), or Varisoft 65.
If you don't have any Hydronated Castor Oil, you can always use another Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, or just replace it for a hard butter, like Kokum or Cocoa Butter.
If you would rather use a natural colourant alternative to Mica, you can always use a powdered plant material. I myself have used Beetroot, stinging nettle and Caledula powders before to help with colouring.
Vitamin E - It acts an an antioxidant, making sure the oils don't oxidise and helps to fight free radicals.
Citric Acid - To help lower our PH, since we have Decyl glucoside in our formula
PhaseTrade NameINCI NameW/W%FunctionASCISodium Cocoyl Istheoniate55%Primary SurfactantADecyl GlucosideDecyl Glucoside15%Secondary SurfactantBBTMS 50Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetyl Alcohol 8%Conditioning SurfactantBHydrogenated Castor OilHydrogenated Castor Oil8%Emollient/HardenerBCetyl AlcoholCetyl Alcohol7%Emollient/HardenerCKaolinKaolin1.5%
Cleansing
CMicaMica (CI 77019)1%ColourCCitric AcidCitric Acid1.5%PH Adjuster COrange and Cinnamon Fragrance OilFragrance1.5%FragranceCPreservativeDehydroacetic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol1%PreservativeCVitamin ETocopherol0.5%Antioxidant
We will make a 200g batch to start out with, which will make roughly two 100g bars
Ingredients:
Phase A
SCI 110g
Decyl Glucoside 30g
Phase B
BTMS 50 16g
Hydrogenated Castor Oil 16g
Cetyl Alcohol 14g
Phase C
Kaolin Clay 3g
Mica 2g
Citric Acid 3g
Fragrance/Essential Oil 3g
Preservative 2g
Vitamin E 1g
Method
Weigh out your Phase A (SCI and CAPB) and Phase B (BTMS 50, Hydrogenated Castor Oil and Cetyl Alcohol) ingredients into two separate beakers, then put them on the double boilers (you can even use a trivet or a jar lid in the bottom of a pot to act as a double boiler of sorts), and allow the ingredients to melt down.
The Phase A ingredients will melt down into a paste, and the Phase B ingredients will be completely liquid.
While these are melting, get a 2 small beakers and add your powdered Phase C ingredients to one and liquid Phase C ingredients to the other.
Once the Phase A and Phase B ingredients are melted down, then turn off the heat, and pour your Phase B ingredients into you Phase A beaker.
Stir well so they become a homogenised state, then add in you phase C ingredients and mix well.
As your ingredients cool, they will become a playdough like consistency. Plop your ingredients into your moulds and put in the freezer for a few hours to harden.
Once out of the freezer let them sit for 24-48 hours, then they're ready to use.
Make sure you don't leave the bar in a puddle of water, otherwise they will break down very quickly, let them dry inbetween uses.
You may find it isn't as foamy as our previous 3 in 1 bar. It does still cleanse well, try and wash your hair twice if you need too, otherwise it is still useful as a body wash bar :)
If you enjoyed this, want to support what we are doing please help by offering to buy me a coffee, or if you love to make more solid skincare or haircare products, check out our eBooks Syndet Bars for Beginners (There is a good tip to toe body wash in here also). and Summer Essentials Skincare. You can use the code SUMMER to get 20% off the latter ebook which has been scientific studies referenced also.
Let me know how you get on! And feel free to send us photos of your bars for us to feature on our instagram page to [email protected] or tag us on instagram @laecovita
© Created by Anna Castellani 2021, All Rights reserved. For personal use only, if you would like to use it for commercial use, please contact us at [email protected]
