Despite previously bemoaning Pai’s ultra-slow pace of life, I’ve found a string of reasons to stick around here — over which time, the skies have clouded over and the heavens have opened. Getting drenched every day has provided some feeling of connection with my family and friends back in the UK facing the tumult of Storm Antoni. But rainfall in Pai is rather different to the London rains I know so well; here, one has the impression of being inside the clouds, feeling water energise and rejuvenate the rich surrounding plant life. My accommodation’s terrace provides a covered spot from which to listen to rain’s musical drumming, with stunning views of mountains half obscured by grey wisps, almost mirroring the smoke and incense that fills the town.
The current weather means that daily plans take on a tactical element — the need to seize moments of dryness to enjoy viewpoints and walks. Cosy cafés Malamong and Art in Chai, with their respective offerings of herbal tea and hot cacao, are hubs of nightly gathering, home to spontaneous musical jams and open mics. Although my travels to Southeast Asia were largely motivated by the quest for sun, its absence has not dented my experience of adventure. I was able to connect with fellow travellers through facilitating a creative writing workshop on the theme of ‘Roots’ at the gorgeous Harmony Hub, bringing together Polish, Israeli and British participants to channel and share written self-expression on topics of nature and happiness. I really appreciated the spirit of openness and willing that all brought into the workshop space, and feel rewarded from taking more time in Pai to build friendships and engage with meaningful activities, rather than isolating in my room and eye-rolling at the stoners. Being inside an endless monsoon does present some limitations (and an abundance of hungry mosquitoes), so it may not be long before I’m off to find a patch of land where my clothes aren’t permanently soggy. But in the meantime, grey days encourage reflection and inspire me to cherish those rare, light-tinged moments when the storm clears - as in the context for today’s poem…
Driving Nowhere
Starting to drive with nowhere in mind
past green and grey landscapes I’m leaving behind;
Breeze and rain dance on the skin of my arms,
handlebars’ friction grip under my palms.
Mountains around me are half-wrapped in mist
who’ve seen generations and centuries exist…
I’m getting eventually to where I need to go
but to drink in the beauty, I drive along slow.
Reaching the café with deep valley views,
I switch off my phone and I switch off the news -
Though I’m sometimes alone, Earth holds me when lonely -
I love other people, but don’t let them own me.
My mind shines with lyrics of the poets I read,
finding peace away from material greed,
finding space to be me, in the hammocks and fields
with words and resilience to act as my shield.
Life’s brilliance, life’s miracle, is evident here
where nature makes minds feel light - alive - clear.
I connect to each tree, to each wild meadow flower,
feel life-force within me and act in its power.
There is simple pleasure in each given day,
buried treasure in grass blades and skies’ sombre grey.
I’ll come back to the road with a steadier steer.
When the past doesn’t serve me, I let it disappear
and take the path onwards with home in my heart,
every moment a chance for rebirth, a fresh start.